(Reprinted with permission of author Kevin Stiegelmaier from his new guidebook “Canoeing & Kayaking New York.”)
Raquette Lake, the largest natural lake in the Adirondacks, has always been a popular destination for people looking to get away from it all. With natural beauty, a convenient location, and advocates like William West Durant, it is easy to understand why. It was Durant, in fact, who designed and built many luxurious “camps” around the lake during the 1800’s in the style which became known as the “Great Camp” style. These destinations, and the roads and rail lines they required, helped turn Raquette Lake into the bustling Adirondack Lake it is today.
No longer the playground of the rich and famous, Raquette Lake is a part of the vast system of canoe routes that run throughout the Adirondack Park. From its waters one can travel to Old Forge along the Fulton Chain of lakes or can head north to Long Lake and beyond. One can also pick up the Marion River from its eastern shore and follow the river to Utowana Lake, Eagle Lake, and ultimately Blue Mountain Lake (another series of lakes known as the Eckford Chain).
Like Raquette Lake, Blue Mountain Lake also served as vacation destination for people in search of a bit of the outdoors. Instead of “Great Camps” though, Blue Mountain Lake was known for its lavish hotels, one of which was the first in the world to have electricity in every room (thanks to one of Thomas Edison’s generators). Most of these hotels are gone today and, although much of the southern shore of the lake is developed, the remainder of the lake has remained relatively unspoiled (even though electricity has become more widespread).
Paddling to Blue Mountain Lake along the scenic route from Raquette Lake through the Eckford Chain has become immensely popular among canoers. The extensive shoreline of Raquette Lake, the twisting turns and extensive marshes of the Marion, the wilderness of Utowana and Eagle Lakes, and the stunningly beautiful landscape of Blue Mountain Lake all add to its appeal. Even the short carry between the Marion and Utowana Lake is easy enough that it only adds a bit of charm to the paddle. Of course there are no longer extravagant camps or hotels to stay in along the way. But, I am sure most won’t mind.
At-a-Glance Information
Class – I
Length – 13 miles
Time – 5 to 6 hours
Runnable Months – April to November
Hazards – Boat traffic
Portages – One
Rescue Access – Easy
Gauge – Visual, Phone
Level – N/A
Gradient –2.3
Scenery – A++
Run Description
Although it is quite easy to paddle in either direction along the Marion River, most locals recommend paddling upstream from Raquette Lake to Blue Mountain Lake because of the prevailing winds which blow out of the west. Those wishing to embark on such a trip will find no better spot to launch from than the public boat launch in Raquette Lake Village.
Once on the water, paddlers will find the shores of Raquette Lake are lined with vacation homes, camps, and boat houses. Despite this development, however, there is not a great deal of boat traffic to contend with. Even on busy days, the lake is big enough that there is more than enough room for power boaters and paddlers to coexist peaceably. One could easily spend a full day, or many days, exploring the lake’s many islands, coves, and miles of shoreline. For those ultimately headed to Blue Mountain Lake, though, the mouth of the Marion River lies three miles from the village, north of first big point of land on the lake’s eastern shore.
While the lake’s shores are lined with cedar, fir, and hemlock trees, the land around the Marion River is something quite different. Along its narrow, sinuous route are huge clusters of the bright purple pickerelweed flowers, vast marshes of cattail and alder bushes, and wide floating mats of both yellow pond and fragrant water lilies. Also obvious are the blossoms of the beautiful cardinal flower, lending their vibrant red color to the green of the marsh, stately great blue herons hunting the shallows, and rackous kingfishers patrolling the shores. All the while, views of Blue Mountain pop up whenever the river turns to the east and the sky is clear.
The navigable portion of the Marion ends three and a half miles later and a portage must be made. Thankfully, the carry is quite short (0.3 miles) and very easy (it is along a wide and smooth trail). At its eastern end waits a small dock and the scenic Utowana Lake. Ringed with maple, birch, balsam fir, and white pine trees, Utowana also holds some marshy environs within its banks which contain most of the same vegetation as on the Marion. Heading two and a half miles further east leads to a narrow channel that empties into one mile long Eagle Lake.
Once across Eagle Lake, a beautiful and rustic bridge can be seen on the left. This wood and stone bridge was built by William West Durant, famed designer and builder of camps in the “Adirondack Great Camp” style. A large plaque under its span tells the story of how Durant built this bridge, known as the Pioneer Bridge, in memory of his father, Dr. Thomas Clark Durant. Dr. Durant was well known himself, as the man who developed the idea for and built the first transcontinental railroad and the Adirondack Railroad.
Once past the Pioneer Bridge and through the channel after it, the sheer beauty of Blue Mountain Lake can finally be experienced. It may be tempting to paddle along the south shore of the lake and take the quickest route to the takeout, especially after paddling more than ten miles from Raquette Lake. Nevertheless, at least a small part of the lake should be explored. With dozens of granite islands, verdant green shorelines, beautiful camps, and scenic mountain vistas in every direction, even the weariest paddler will have trouble leaving this natural wonder. But, every trip must finally come to an end, and, the best places to end this one are at the public boat launch on the southeast corner of the lake, or at the Blue Mountain Lake Outfitters dock just a bit further north.
Click here to order a copy of: “Canoeing & Kayaking New York.”
Click here to visit Kevin’s blog.
Leave a comment